Why is it called Franz Josef? And why should you not miss this adventure?
Franz Josef: It is names like Franz Josef because it was shaped like his beard, that’s good to know.
12-11-2010
Arriving in Franz Josef on a sunny day will be amazing, a beautiful valley surrounded by snowy mountains. This was not the case when we arrived, and probably not when you arrive there either, there are more rainy days than sunny days here. So what is so special about visiting this Glacier? Everyone should do the Franz Josef glacier walk, but why? There are thousands of glaciers all over the world, so why stop and visit this one?
Well let me tell you about the Franz Josef Glazier walk.
This glacier is one out of 3 (in the world) that has the combination of plants, trees and snow and ice, ever tried to grow a plant in the freezer? I tell you this would never work. But here you find lush rain forest and a huge glacier, oh yes this place is pretty unique!
The Franz Josef brochure tells you it is the most spectacular commercial guided glacier in New Zealand there are about 1000 glaciers in New Zealand, and I believe them. Also even though it is raining a lot the Franz Josef has more sunny hours than other glaciers. It is good that is rains a lot though; otherwise there would be no glacier. The snow fall here is about 30 meters a year and this is a lot more than in normal ski areas in France or Austria. Because the snowfall is so high, the pressure builds up, the snow turns in too ice, the constant moving of the ice forms crevasses and ice caves you can walk though.
The other thing you would expect is for a glacier to be really high. I thought it would be at 3000 meter. But no, the glacier is just 1300 meter high. This makes it easy to walk to. Not easy to walk on by the way. You do need a guide and special equipment, pretty tricky these glaciers.
At Xtreme Gap we try everything out ourselves, and this glacier walk was high on our list and not to be missed while travelling through New Zealand. On November 14 2010 I and my group got geared up at 9 in the morning on a (YES!!) sunny day. How lucky were we?! Although it supposed to be nice too when you walk in the rain (beautiful colours and it is not cold and all rain jackets are included) I was very happy for it to be sunny.
We signed up for the whole day glacier walk, and I would strongly advise you to do this, otherwise you would only just set foot on the ice and miss the exiting stuff like walking through ice tunnels and amazing views higher up the glacier. The guides by the way are fantastic. With their humor, knowledge and big ice picks to make you stairs in the ice they make your trip very memorable. The guides undergo rigorous and ongoing assessment programme and the company Xtreme Gap works with has over 15 years experience.
Our guide, Ryan, told us that he started about 2,5 years ago guiding at the Franz Josef glacier. He also said that the glacier t that time was about 300 meters shorter. Shorter? Yes! At this moment the glacier is 300 meters longer than 2 year ago, so the global warming had no effect on his glacier. It gowns, but it might well be melting again over the next few years, and then grow again.
After a 20 minute drive we reached the parking and started walking, on stones. The glacier was in sight, waiting to be climbed. And we did, after a 2.8 km walk we reached the ice. We got split up in groups of 10 to make the experience more unique and personal. Once we have reached the ice we had to put on our crampons. These are steel pointy things you put under your walking shoes so you can walk on the ice. A little insecure still we walked on our crampons to the ice of the Franz Josef glacier, we practiced some techniques and off we went.
At first it’s easy. But it got harder along the way and more beautiful too. What you do not see walking towards the glacier is that you have tunnels of ice, walk troughs, ‘ponds’ and the glacier blue melting with the sun shining on it is absolutely stunning.
We were told to wear at least 5 layers of clothes and we received a rain coat and trousers. Once on the walk it was hot! So all (well not all but a lot) of layers were taking of, and I though why oh why did we need to bring all the layers. That became clearer with every 100 meter we climbed. Every 100 meter higher it is 1 degree Celsius colder. I started with a legging and a t shirt and I ended in a lot layers more including woolen head and gloves.
Oh yeah, and being extreme Oliver needed to enter the ‘who can hold his arm in the glacier water the longest, he won! But it was freezing cold, there was no feeling left in his arm, but he won and that is all that mattered.
Challenging? I think everyone can join, if you have a normal fitness level you can do this although at the end of the day at around 5.30 I was knackered. It is more a mentally challenging experience. Quite ‘xtreme’ walking over a glacier and being surrounded by ice walking through narrow ice tunnels. All will become clear in the video and pictures.
I left the glacier with a feeling of excitement, achievement, smiling, tired and in need of a hot shower and a good glass of wine over a big plate of spaghetti bolognaise.
Accommodation, The rain forest retreat.
The accommodation is fantastic. Situated in the town of Franz Josef with a view on snowy mountains surrounded by rain forest. There is a big selection of rooms, double, double en-suite, and dorms. Clean showers and a huge kitchen, nice social area, internet, great views, there are hot tubs and you can use the free Jacuzzi, fantastic after a long walk. The town is nothing exiting, by the time the back on the bus was in the front of the bus passed the sign thank you for visiting the town of Franz Josef, we wish you a good journey.
You will find some nice bars and a super market. But that is all you need. Stay 2 nights and carry on.
We are on our way to Wanaka, and just had the good news about the weather there. Blue skies and blue skies are good when you have planned to jump out of a plane there. More news later.. I hope.
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